Why Late Summer Beats Late Fall

• Availability. Outdoor vehicle spaces are the first thing to fill at any Wisconsin facility. Reserving in August means you choose your size instead of taking what is left.
• Working conditions. Flushing an engine, washing a hull, or resealing a roof seam is a pleasant task in 75-degree weather and a miserable one in 40-degree drizzle.
• Time to fix what you find. Winterizing is when you discover the cracked seal, the soft spot in the floor, or the battery that will not hold a charge. Finding that in August leaves you time to address it. Finding it in November means it sits all winter and gets worse.

Boat Winterization Checklist

• Get the water out — then add antifreeze. Water is what does the damage over a Wisconsin winter. On inboards and sterndrives, drain the block, manifolds, and hoses, clearing each drain hole with a stiff wire; silt and rust plug them routinely, and an engine that looks drained often is not. Draining alone still leaves pockets of water trapped in passages and pumps, so follow it by filling the raw-water side with −100°F propylene glycol marine antifreeze. Engines with closed cooling still need the raw-water side winterized. For outboards, tilt the engine all the way down and leave it there so water drains out rather than freezing inside. Drain the bilge, livewells, and any raw-water washdown line as well.
• Treat the fuel. Fill a vented tank to about 95 percent — leaving room for expansion — and add a stabilizer, then run the engine long enough for treated fuel to reach the whole system. This matters more with ethanol-blended fuel, which can separate over a long layup. Replace fuel filters and water separators rather than reusing them.
• Fog the engine and change the oil. Bring the engine to operating temperature first so moisture cooks out. One caution: direct-injected two-strokes should not get conventional fogging oil through the intake — those call for a small amount of the manufacturer's oil into each cylinder through the plug hole instead. Fresh lower-unit and crankcase oil keeps acids and contaminants from sitting against internal parts for six months.
• Winterize the plumbing. Drain the freshwater tank, sinks, and head. Drain the water heater and bypass it rather than filling it, then circulate non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze through every faucet and fixture until it runs through. Never use automotive antifreeze in a potable system — ethylene glycol is poisonous.
• Clean and protect the hull. Wash and wax before storage. Grime left on gelcoat all winter is much harder to remove in spring.
• Handle the canvas. Remove and dry canvas and covers completely before folding them. Damp canvas stored folded is how mildew starts.
• Pull the battery. Fully charge it and store it somewhere dry, or keep it on a maintainer. A charged battery tolerates cold well; a discharged one can freeze and split.

RV and Camper Checklist

• Drain and protect the water system. Empty the fresh, gray, and black tanks and open the low-point drains. Confirm the water heater is off in both gas and electric modes, let it cool, open the pressure relief valve before pulling the drain plug, and bypass the tank. Remove and discard the inline water filter cartridge and drain its housing before you pump anything through. Then run RV antifreeze through the lines by opening every faucet and flushing the toilet until it comes through pink.
• Do not forget the traps. Pour about a quart of RV antifreeze down each drain and P-trap, and leave some in the toilet bowl to hold the air seal. Add roughly a quart to the black tank. Use RV antifreeze only — automotive ethylene glycol is toxic and must never go near a potable system.
• Shut off the propane. Close the tank valves and the appliance valves.
• Motorhomes: fill the fuel tank and stabilize it. A full tank leaves less room for condensation. Add stabilizer if the rig will not run for several months. (Towables have no fuel tank — skip this one.)
• Take care of the tires. Inflate to the recommended PSI and park on a dry, firm surface. Boards or pads under the tires help if you are on grass or bare ground, and moving the rig slightly every month or two prevents flat spots.
• Inspect the roof and seals. Look over the roof, windows, and every seam. A small gap in August is a repair; the same gap in March is water damage.
• Keep the rodents out. Fall is when mice look for a warm place. Screen the water heater and refrigerator vents and seal openings around the underbelly.
• Empty and air out the interior. Remove all food, take out valuables, prop cabinet doors open for airflow, and set out moisture absorbers.
• Pull and store the battery. Charge it fully and check it periodically through the winter.

Choosing the Right Space

• 12x20 — boats up to about 18 feet, pop-up campers
• 12x25 — cars, boats and travel trailers up to about 22 feet
• 12x30 — boats and trailers in the 18 to 27 foot range
• 12x35 — boats and RVs up to about 33 feet
• 12x40 — RVs, fifth wheels, and trailers up to about 38 feet

Do It Once, Do It Right

• Waukesha Storage — W271 S2885 Merrill Hills Rd, Waukesha, WI 53188 — (262) 521-2200
• Scenic Self Storage — 900 Silvernail Rd, Pewaukee, WI 53072 — (262) 542-8833
• Brookfield Self Storage — 2846 N Brookfield Rd, Brookfield, WI 53008 — (262) 789-7422

Notes for whoever publishes this

• Link "climate-controlled" in the Choosing the Right Space section to /blog/what-is-climate-controlled-storage
• Link "month-to-month terms" to /blog/month-to-month-storage-pewaukee
• Link the sizing list to the site's size guide page
• Consider a link from the July post, A Seasonal Storage Checklist for Wisconsin Homes, back to this one